Thb national lithographins



(No ModeL) r v LU'TZ. PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENT-8.

No. 516,828. PatentedMar. 20, 1894.

fi/eutor:

TH! NATIONAL LITHOGRAFHING coMP WASHINGTON, n. c.

UNITED STATES PAT NT Gimmes.

PATTER N FOR DRAFTING GA RMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 516,828, dated March 20 1894,

' To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, MATTHAUS LUTZ, a resident of Stuttgart, Germany, have invented new and useful Improvements in Patterns for Drafting Garments, (for which I have .ob-

tained patent in no country,) of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to waist-patterns, and more especially to patterns adapted to fit waists to persons having various builds The object of this invention is substantially to adapt one and the same pattern for fitting waists for all persons whose upper widths are I 5 equal, butwhose shapes and carriage are difthe body for which the garment is designed.

In this process, the forming of the model for the lower part of the garment (dress-waist) does not offer much diffioulty, inasmuch as that part of the body which is to be covered thereby may be generally assumed to be in the form of the frustum of a cone, flaring from the waist portion to the arm-pits. The upper part of the garment (dress-waist), however, which may be regarded as a cone trun- 5 cated obliquely, constitutes the part of the model, the fitting of which involves considerable difficulty. This obliquely-truncated cone, whose shape it is desired to retain with the greatest possible accuracy, rests upon the lower frustum of a cone at its bottom and is bounded at its top by the neck opening. The relation between the rear and front vertical measurement of this obliquelytruncated cone, that is to say, between the back-measure and the front-measure, varies according to the attitude or carriage of the body. The base line of this truncated cone, moreover, is in the form of an irregular oval, whose form varies according to the curvature of the back. In general, it may be assumed that the accurate fit of the garment, i.-e., the so-called balance of the entire out, depends upon conform- Application filed $eptember 19, 1893- SerialNo. 485,839. (No model.)

ing to the carriage of the body and the curvature or archingof the back, the sleeve-opening being also taken into account.

Notwithstandingthe great number of garment-drafting systems in use, it has hitherto always been necessary for the same u-p'per width of the body, to make a separate model for each separate carriage of the body and curvature of the back, and this resulted in considerable loss of time and additional eitort.

In the drawings accompanying this specification-Figure 1 represents a dress-pattern model embodying my invention, assembled; and Fig. 2 represents the same separated into its parts.

As already stated, for the purpose of ,preparing the pattern-model, the upper body is assumed to be composed of two mat-hematical bodies, viz: the frustum of a cone, and a superimposed obliquely-truncated cone, both of these truncated cones having a common base, which lies in a horizontal plane passing through the arm-pits. If the frustum of a cone is produced on the line of the backbone and the perpendiculardistance from the same to the neck-opening measured in centimeters, this is termed the carriage or attitude of the body, 2'. e., the smaller or greater this measure is, the more or less erect is the carriage of the person measured, or, in other words, the more or less high breasted is the same. According as the carriage of the said person is more or less erect, the front line of the obliquelytruncated cone is longer or shorter. This must be taken into account in the patternmodel, which, for this purpose, is made in two parts, at that point, instead of one, as formerly, the upper part, B, which has the form of the obliquely-truncated cone developed into a plane, being pivoted at a point, h, lying upon a horizontal line, Z-Z, which forms a tangent to the arm-hole. This point, h, forms the intersection of the rear vertical line with the lower horizontal tangent to the arm-hole. The line, ZZ, forms the line of intersection between the developments of the obliquely-truncated cone and the frustum.

The part, 0, of the pattern-model, forms the development of the frustum into a plane, and is provided with a scale, a, formed on the arc of a circle from point, 72, as a center, the said scale being provided with a slot, as

shown. The middle portion of this arc-shaped scale is located at the intersection of the armhole tangent, Z-Z, with an imaginary line drawn from the shoulder point, cl, to the front waist point, cl. For mean measurements, the distance from the pivotal point, It, to the scale at, exactly equals the distance of the former, (the point, 7a,) to the neck-line, a, so that each centimeter of the carriage or attitude of the body, as measured, corresponds exactly to a centimeter on the scale, n. Hence, if, for example, a measure of nine centimeters is taken for the carriage of the body, the part, Z, of the section, B, is moved to the mark, 9, on the scale 11, whereby the front part of the pattern-model is determined, all that is necessary being to now trace the outline of the two pattern-sections, B and O. For every normal attitude of the body, there is a corresponding position of the arm-hole indicated on the pattern-model, and a scale m for this purpose is provided on the part, B, of the model. Assuming that an attitude of 10 has been measured, the part, B, is set to the division-mark, 10, on the scale 12 of O, for the purpose of obtaining the correct outline. The division-mark, 10, of the scale m will then form the corresponding tangent for the proper sleeve-opening. The rear portion of the pattern-model also depends essentially upon the curvature of the back. For normally built persons, it may be accepted as an empirical rule that the curvature of the back is equal to about one-half spinal curvature (measured at the neck) less one centimeter. Large deviations occur here, flat backs being frequently coupled with great spinal curvature, and greatly-arched backs with an erect attitude or carriage. To compensate for these variations, I provide the scale, 0, located on the portion 0 concentric to point, h, and having graduations corresponding to the arching of the back, measured in centimeters. The measurements required for this purpose, that is to say, to measure the deviations from the normal measurements, do not exceed eight centimeters, provided hump-backs are not considered, and, therefore, the scale, 0, on the portion 0 is provided with graduations from O to 8, only. By means of this scale, 0, the rear part of the pattern is fixed, c. e., the rear straight portion of B, is set to the proper graduation on the scale, 0, after the front form of the pattern-model has been adjusted. The curved line, b, of the part, B, will then form the direction of the line, 0, of part, 0, that is to say, the continuation thereof. The backportion, A, is not modified for any variation caused by different spinal curvatures or arching of the back, and is simply applied to the upper end of the edge, 6', beginning with its angle, a.

The model is formed as follows: When the necessary measurements have been taken and the common pattern-model for every upper width is provided, the part, B, is so set to the part, 0, that the former will indicate the carriage or attitude of the body on the scale, 7', whereupon the front edge of the model is traced. The same graduation-mark on the scale, m, to which the section, B, was set on the scale, at, is then selected, the said graduation mark being then produced to form the front tangent of the sleeve-opening. Finally, the section, B, is set with respect to the scale, 0, the line, 11', forming the direction for the line, 0, of the part or section, 0. The section, A, does not vary for the same upper Width, and it is only to be observed thatin sewing together the sections, it is attached in the correct position, as above stated. For one and the same upper width, or for only slightlyvarying upper widths of garments, the pattern-model may, therefore, be employed in connection with all spinal curvatures (bodily attitudes), as well as all convexities or archings of the back. After all measures have been taken correctly, the pattern may be com-H pleted within two minutes at the utmost, inasmuch as it is only necessary to set the pivoted part on section, B, twice and then to trace the outlines. The advantages of pre paring a pattern in this way, especially for simple tailors who are not able to employ an extra-cutter, will be best apparent to those skilled in the trade.

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A pattern-model for drafting garments, consisting of two sections, B and O, the former being provided with an arm-eye opening, the

sections being pivotally connected to each other, the pivotal point, 72, of the same being the point of intersection of the lowermost horizontal and the rear vertical tangent to the arm-eye opening, substantially as set forth.

2. A pattern-model for drafting garments, consisting of two sections, B and O, the former being provided with an arm-eye opening, the sections being pivotally connected to each other, the pivotal point, h, of the same being the point of intersection of the lowermost horizontal and the rear vertical tangentto the arm-eye opening, the section, B, being provided with a scale, m, and the section, 0, being provided with the scales, at and e, wherein by setting both sections with respect to the three said scales, m, 7t and o, the front pattern-outline, the front tangent to the armeye opening and the rear pattern-outline may be determined, so that for equal or approxi mately equal upper widths of the body, the same pattern-model may be employed for variations in attitude and build, by proper adjustment.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

MATTHAUS LUTZ. Witnesses:

AUGUST 13. DRUSTZ, THEODORE F. LEGEN. 

